I remember when I first saw a copy of an International Male
catalog. It was in the mid-1980s, when I was a senior in high school. My
mother, a librarian, found a copy in the library’s catalog bin and
brought it home. Most of the family—save my dad, who has no interest in fashion
and dresses accordingly—flipped through the catalog, making fun of the clothes,
though no one made fun of them more loudly than me. Yet inside I couldn’t wait
to get the catalog alone, in the privacy of my room, so I could fully
appreciate its contents.
But it wasn’t meant to be. After we all had a laugh at
International Male’s expense, my mother promptly tucked
the catalog back into her tote bag and returned it to the library the next
morning. It was a good decade before I came out, but in retrospect it was clear that even then she had her suspicions. Her allowing only a limited, supervised viewing of that
International Male catalog confirmed it. She also inadvertently elevated it from a mere clothing
catalog to pornography in my mind.
The 2022 documentary ALL MAN:
THE INTERNATIONAL MALE STORY isn’t perfect, but it perfectly
encapsulates the clothing brand’s importance to, in the words of the late David Rakoff, “a certain kind of boy,” specifically those who came of
age between the latter days of disco and the height of grunge.
Directors Bryan Darling and Jesse Finley Reed, with narrator
Matt Bomer’s help, give us a (mostly) breezy tour of International Male’s
founding, subsequent success and slow decline, as well as commentary on IM’s
cultural impact, which means of course Carson Kressley and Simon Doonan
are on hand to give their two cents, with an un-needed assist from stylist and “influencer”🙄 William Graper, to appeal to the kids, I guess. It’s like an
episode of VH-1: Behind the Music, except instead of the pressures of
recording a new hit single and touring relentlessly while battling drug
addition, it’s about the pressures of selling Buns™ underwear and trying to look
butch while modeling gold lamé thongs. Call it Behind the Baskets.
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Fitness wear or fetish gear? The California Splits shorts allow for easy access when you go to Probe, while the handles of the digital jump rope could easily double as butt plugs. And exactly who was wearing that jock strap pendant on the lower right page? No straight (or gay) man that I know. |
Luckily, Darling and Reed were able to get on-camera
interviews with IM founder Gene Burkard before his death in December 2020. After
a stint in the Air Force during the Korean war, Burkard took a job as a European
sales rep for a liquor distributor selling exclusively to American military bases.
The job afforded Burkhard, who was gay, an opportunity to not only experience the
queer bars of Europe, but European culture as well (“I was always on the prowl,” he says, adding wryly: “learning, of course.”) Though the documentary makes special
mention of the fact that men’s underwear design was becoming more daring in 1960s
Europe, it was an item spotted in the display window of a medical supply store
in London that inspired Burkard.
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From left: Gene Burkard in the Air Force in the 1950s; on an appearance on the game show What’s My Line? in 1974; and being interviewed for All Man: The International Male Story. |
“There was this strange garment there. It was called a suspensory,” Burkard recalls. “I said, ‘You know, this would make a
good gay item.’ So, I went and bought one.”
It wasn’t until Burkhard returned to the U.S. in the
early 1970s, settling in San Diego, Calif., that a lightbulb went off. After
reading How to Make $1,000,000 in Mail Order, he designed, with the help
of a pattern maker, the product that would ultimately lead to the creation of
International Male: the Jock Sock.
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From medical garment to sexy underwear to fashion (?) empire: the Jock Sock. |
As described by IM’s former Senior Art Director Dennis Mori,
the Jock Sock “is a waist band with a cup in front that hooks around your
balls.” Or, as a friend of mine described it: a bag for your balls. The initial
advertising for the item was restricted to publications like The Advocate
(“They’d take any ad,” Burkard says), but Burkard wanted to expand his
reach, so he borrowed money from a friend to place an ad in Playboy. That’s
when, Burkard says, all hell broke loose. “We had so many orders, and I had one
guy helping me, and he was stoned half the time.”
The timing couldn’t have been better. The recent sexual
revolution had relaxed attitudes, and Playgirl was sexualizing men for
women’s enjoyment (sure). Burkard decided he wanted to launch a clothing
company that would, ironically, butch up how it presented men’s sexy
fashions, and its catalog would be like a magazine. And so, International Male
was born.
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The cover and inside pages of an early issue—possibly the debut issue—of the International Male catalog. |
‘PG-13 Porn’ vs. ‘a Fag Magazine’
As portrayed by All Man, International Male, staffed with gay men and a few straight women, was a fun,
if disorganized, place to work. None of the former employees have any dirt to dish
on Gene, and it’s inspiring to hear how this group of people, almost all learning
on the job, were able to create such a successful company—so successful that it
opened brick and mortar stores in San Diego and West Hollywood. The clientele
was predominantly, but not exclusively, gay. Even superstars Cher and Barbra
Streisand shopped there (that tracks).
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Another one of International Male's signature items, Buns™ underwear. |
Yet the patronage divas wanting something sexy for their boyfriends
did little to earn International Male much respect. The IM catalog was
alternately dismissed as selling sex or, per one former employee, a “fag magazine.” Burkard saw it as neither. The catalog was for all men. As for sex: “You
never saw the words ‘hot’ or ‘sexy.’ I didn’t want that emphasis on sex.”
But sex was certainly on the minds of many of us who got
the catalog. “The day the International Male catalog would come was on par with
the Sears Christmas catalog coming when you were a kid,” says writer, comedian
and one-time Daily
Show correspondent Frank DeCaro. “You
were going to be transported into this gay fantasy. And then you were going to
spank one out.”
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The Undergear section (later spun off into a separate catalog) was likely a highlight for many a horny homosexual. This section here is notable for featuring an Asian model. |
Scissor Sisters’ lead singer Jake Shears details his baffling
IM jack-off ritual of tearing off tiny bits of toilet paper to cover up the
models’ crotches to better imagine them naked. Not judging, but this extra work
seems unnecessary, given that one of the appealing aspects of the IM catalog was
the models’ bulging crotches, often with the outlines of their junk plainly
visible. Well, whatever works for you, Jake. (Also, the strappy bodysuit Jake
wears in Scissor Sisters’ “Any Which Way”
video looks like it was inspired by one of IM’s creations, if not purchased directly
from the company itself.)
Actor Parvesh Cheena recalls the catalog just showing up in
the mail one day. “I never signed up for it. I was never that bold. I was
never, like, ‘Please, send me PG-13 porn.’”
As, um, inspiring as the models could be, few of the
people featured in the documentary were taking style cues from the International
Male catalog. Says actor Drew Doerge: “I’d feel ridiculous wearing this stuff, but
there’s something really sexy about a model who doesn’t feel ridiculous wearing
it.”
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To be fair, Dalmatian print boxers with matching robe aren’t the silliest of International Male’s fashions. |
Except, they did. Frequent IM model Brian Buzzini (who also
posed for Playgirl) describes IM clothing as “clothes you had to be paid to
wear.” Another former model, Robert Goold, says models would often try to trade
assigned outfits and describes trying to affect a masculine pose while wearing
them as “a professional challenge.” And those smiles on the models’ faces? That
was laughter over the silly outfits they were asked to wear. Even the people putting
the catalog together express astonishment that people were buying what IM is
selling.
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Brian Buzzini, then and now, looking just as good. |
AIDS, Selling Out and the Puffy Shirt
International Male’s success continued from the hedonistic ’70s
into the 1980s, when Miami Vice and MTV dominated pop culture, and people
were getting into shape, and paradoxically, cocaine. The ’80s also saw the emergence of HIV and AIDS, and its
impact on IM was substantial. The frothy tone of All Man turns bleak as
it includes a slide show of all the staff members the company lost to the virus.
I counted at least 16 who died. And as the death toll from AIDS increased, so
did homophobia, making it more difficult to market IM to straight men.
It was during this time that Burkard, no longer finding the
business he started fun, sold the company to Hanover Direct for $25 million. (The
specific year of the sale was 1987, something I had to Google as All Man
isn’t big on providing specific dates.) The sale to Hanover made IM employees
nervous, with good reason. “There was a terrible day in the office where they fired
almost everybody,” former Art Director Maureen Dalton-Wolf recalls.
“One day I was walking past the vice president’s door, and
one of the people from Hanover was there,” says Mori. “I heard this gentleman
say, ‘So, what are we going to do about the gay problem?’” Mori says he
confronted them, asking, “What do you mean, ‘the gay problem?’” Unfortunately, the
VP and the Hanover rep’s response is not shared on camera, though it’s clear
Mori wasn’t with the company much longer.
IM’s new creative director, Peter Karoll. brought in a
straight photographer and support crew for the catalog shoots to put the models,
most of whom were straight, at ease. “There was a big gay crew who worked there,
and it made me uncomfortable—it made me uncomfortable for the models.”
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David Knight says he was one of two openly gay models when he worked for International Male. Goddamn, do these guys not age like normal people? |
I’ll admit I found Karoll’s concern for the straight dudes’
comfort a punchable offense, especially in an age when “Don’t
Say Gay” laws are a thing. My gay rage was tempered a bit when the
documentary points out that Karoll employed more diverse models (including, per
Wikipedia,
Shemar Moore).
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Dennis Mori admits that in the six years he was art director for International Male, he only used two Black models. The reason: clothes modeled by POC supposedly didn’t sell as well. |
As the 1990s progressed, IM faced a more competitive
marketplace. The cheesiness of IM’s colorful prints, Baroque designs and synthetic
fabrics was amplified when compared to Abercrombie & Fitch and Calvin Klein’s
more sophisticated designs and artful marketing. Not helping was the Seinfeld
episode, “The Puffy Shirt” (sold as “The Ultimate Poet’s Shirt” in the IM
catalog), and the 2001 male modeling spoof Zoolander. Having entered the
mainstream, IM became a laughingstock. And yet, as All Man makes plain, so many of us (i.e., gay Boomers and Gen X’ers, with possibly a few older queer Millennials) still have a certain nostalgia for the days when we got a new edition of the catalog. Yeah, we laughed at the clothes, but the bodies that filled them we took very seriously. It wasn’t just PG-13 porn, it was starter porn.
These days, of course, kids have the Internet, so they don't need to bother imagining what treasures are stuffed in an Aussie Rower or what they’d do with the guy modeling the Brawn Bikini. They certainly can’t imagine ordering clothing from a printed catalog that arrives in the mail (what is mail?) It’s a fact that International Male, like so many retailers in the early days of the Internet, was slow to realize, and had to play catch-up when it finally started selling online. Today, the only remnant of the
company is online, at undergear.com. The clothes are still cheesy (or just plain hideous), but its PG-13
porn days are clearly far behind it, the company now going for a more intense rating.
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Consider Undergear when deciding what to wear to your next sex party: the Male Power Hose Thong, the Wicked Web Thong, or the Male Power Mesh Thong. Incidentally, these photos show more dick than you’ll see in All Man, yet the documentary does include full-frontal footage of a nude woman, as well as several pictorials from Playboy, presumably so all the straight guys watching (it’s a possibility!) don’t get too uncomfortable. |